“The beauty of Chikankari lies in its stitches, but the hands that create them often remain unseen.”
Chikankari, the delicate and intricate embroidery of Lucknow, has long been admired for its elegance and craftsmanship. From royal courts to global runways, this art form has stood the test of time. Yet, behind the scenes, the artisans who bring these breathtaking designs to life struggle with low wages, unfair working conditions, and a fading legacy.
Despite the rising global demand for Chikankari, artisans remain underpaid and undervalued, raising the question: Is passion enough to sustain this centuries-old craft?
The Reality: Who Are the Chikankari Artisans?
Most Chikankari artisans come from rural areas or old Lucknow, with skills passed down through generations. Traditionally, women have been the backbone of this craft, stitching from their homes while balancing household responsibilities.
🔹 A single Chikankari garment takes anywhere from 15 days to 6 months to complete, depending on the complexity of the design.
🔹 Wages remain shockingly low, with artisans earning between ₹150 to ₹500 per piece, while the same outfits sell for ₹5,000 to ₹50,000 in luxury markets.
🔹 Most artisans work under middlemen, who take a large share of the profits, leaving little for the actual creators.
Did You Know?
A study found that only 10-15% of the final selling price reaches the artisans, while retailers and middlemen make huge profits.
The Wage Struggle: Creating Masterpieces, Earning Pennies
Chikankari artisans are among the most underpaid workers in the textile industry, despite their extraordinary skills.
Why do artisans earn so little?
Middlemen exploitation – Artisans rarely sell directly to customers, as middlemen control orders and wages.
Lack of direct market access – Without digital platforms, artisans remain dependent on local traders.
Time-consuming labor – Unlike machine embroidery, handmade Chikan takes days or weeks to complete, but is often priced unfairly.
A Harsh Reality:
An artisan working on a detailed Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari lehenga for over a month might earn ₹3,000, while the finished piece is sold for over ₹1 lakh in designer showrooms.
Middlemen & Exploitation: The Silent Killers of Artisans’ Dreams
The biggest challenge artisans face is the role of middlemen, who:
🔸 Provide raw materials and take back the finished work at extremely low prices.
🔸 Sell the same work to retailers at huge markups.
🔸 Keep artisans in a cycle of dependency and underpayment.
The Struggle of Women in Chikankari
Women form the largest group of Chikankari artisans, yet they face the worst working conditions.
Challenges Faced by Female Artisans:
Work long hours at home with no formal contracts or job security.
Paid even lower wages than men for the same embroidery work.
Lack of financial independence, as payments often go to male family members.
Did You Know?
Women artisans often stitch Chikankari while managing household chores, meaning they work twice as hard for half the pay.
The Rising Threat of Machine-Made Chikankari
As if low wages and middlemen were not enough, artisans now face another major challenge—machine-made Chikankari flooding the market.
How is machine-made embroidery affecting artisans?
Faster production = less demand for handmade work.
Cheaper costs = customers unknowingly buy fake Chikankari.
Less appreciation for handmade skills = artisan families leave the craft.
Is There Hope? How Can We Save Chikankari Artisans?
While the struggle is real, there is still hope to protect the future of Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari.
1. Promoting Fair Wages & Artisan-Owned Brands
Brands like Oudh Creations are working to eliminate middlemen and ensure direct payment to artisans, empowering them financially.
2. Educating Buyers About Authentic Chikan
Consumers must learn to identify real Chikankari vs. fake machine embroidery to support real artisans.
3. The Rise of Online Platforms for Artisans
Many artisans are now selling their work through Instagram, Etsy, and e-commerce websites, removing middlemen from the equation.
The Cost of Beauty—What Can We Do?
As lovers of Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari, we must recognize that behind every beautiful piece lies the dedication, skill, and struggle of an artisan.
The next time you buy Chikankari, ask yourself:
Is this authentic or machine-made?
Am I supporting the artisan or just a retailer?
Am I helping preserve a 400-year-old craft?
At Oudh Creations, we believe in preserving the legacy of Chikankari while ensuring that the real artists behind it are fairly rewarded.
💫 Support handmade. Choose authenticity. Empower artisans.