Art enables us to find ourselves and lose ourselves at the same time.” – Thomas Merton
The rulers of Awadh, especially the Mughals, were connoisseurs of fine art and culture, indulging in music, poetry, architecture, and handicrafts. Among the many artistic traditions that flourished under their reign, one stood out—Chikankari, a delicate and intricate form of hand embroidery that became synonymous with the elegance of Lucknow.
Recognized worldwide for its exquisite craftsmanship, Chikankari embroidery is more than just a textile art—it is a reflection of the tehzeeb (culture) and nazaakat (elegance) of Lucknow. Alongside other famed crafts like zari/zardozi (gold and silver embroidery), hand-block textile printing, and ivory carving, Chikankari remains the most celebrated and sought-after embroidery style from the region.
A Tale of Tradition: From Domestic Art to Royal Elegance
William Hoey, an eminent British administrator, documented the craftsmanship of Lucknow in 1880. He noted that Chikankari was traditionally an employment of Muslim women, often practiced within their homes. However, two distinct groups of artisans emerged over time:
- Male Professional Artisans: These skilled craftsmen created the most intricate and high-quality Chikankari pieces, earning the highest wages for their craftsmanship.
- Women and Children: Often working for minimal wages, they focused on simpler designs used in garments, handkerchiefs, and decorative pieces.
Despite these divisions, Chikankari remained an integral part of Lucknow’s identity, weaving a tale of patience, artistry, and cultural heritage through every stitch.
The Magic in Every Stitch: Why Chikankari Stands Apart
One of the most fascinating aspects of Chikankari is the sheer variety of stitches that artisans master over time. A highly skilled embroiderer can execute anywhere between twelve to seventy-five distinct stitches, making each piece truly unique. This versatility is why Chikankari is impossible to replicate outside Lucknow, despite its global demand.
Each garment is crafted with delicate precision, ensuring that no two pieces are ever truly identical. The hand-embroidered patterns, inspired by Mughal motifs, floral designs, and nature, add an ethereal charm that machine embroidery can never replicate.
A Living Legacy: Chikankari Today
From royal courts to modern-day runways, Chikankari has stood the test of time. While contemporary adaptations have introduced pastel shades, sequins, and fusion styles, the essence of this art remains unchanged—a symbol of sophistication, grace, and history.
For those who own a Chikankari piece, it is not just fabric but a piece of Lucknow’s soul—an ode to an age-old tradition that continues to enchant the world.