“Every stitch of Chikankari tells a story, but does the GI tag help preserve its authenticity?”
Lucknow’s Chikankari embroidery, a craft dating back centuries, is not just a fabric decoration—it’s an identity, a heritage, and a livelihood for thousands of artisans. In 2008, Chikankari was granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, a move that aimed to protect this heritage craft from cheap imitations and mass production.
But over a decade later, has this GI status truly benefited Authentic Chikankari artisans, or is it just a label with little real impact? Let’s explore the significance of the GI tag, its real-world impact, and what still needs to be done to protect this treasured art form.
What is a GI (Geographical Indication) Tag?
A Geographical Indication (GI) tag is a special recognition given to products that originate from a particular place and have unique qualities linked to that region. Some famous GI-tagged products include:
Darjeeling Tea (West Bengal)
Kashmiri Pashmina (Jammu & Kashmir)
Banarasi Silk Sarees (Varanasi)
Mysore Sandalwood (Karnataka)
What does the GI tag do?
Protects originality – Prevents fake products from being sold under the same name.
Ensures authenticity – Only handmade Chikankari from Lucknow can legally be called Lucknowi Chikankari.
Helps artisans gain recognition – Promotes their work in national and international markets.
How Lucknowi Chikankari Received the GI Tag
In December 2008, Chikankari was officially registered under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. This recognition was meant to:
Prevent mass-market imitations
Protect the traditional hand embroidery techniques
Ensure artisans benefit financially from their craft
The Harsh Reality: Is the GI Tag Helping Artisans?
While the GI tag sounds like a great achievement, its impact on actual artisans has been limited. Many fake machine-made Chikankari products are still being sold in markets outside Lucknow under the name of Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari.
Challenges in Implementing the GI Tag:
Lack of awareness – Many buyers are unaware of what the GI tag means or how to check authenticity.
No strong enforcement – Despite the tag, machine-made Chikankari is sold openly in Delhi, Kolkata, Surat, and online stores.
Artisans still struggle – The GI tag has not led to a major increase in fair wages or better conditions for most Chikankari workers.
Did You Know?
Even after the GI tag, many Chikankari artisans still earn as little as ₹150–₹500 per garment, while machine-made imitations dominate the market at lower prices.
How to Identify GI-Tagged Chikankari?
Since fake Chikankari is common, here’s how to identify genuine GI-tagged Chikankari:
Check for an Authenticity Label – Many artisan cooperatives provide a GI tag label on handmade Chikankari pieces.
Feel the Texture – Hand embroidery is soft, raised, and has unique patterns, while machine embroidery is uniform and stiff.
Look at the Reverse Side – In handmade Chikankari, the back is as neat as the front, unlike machine embroidery, which has tangled threads.
Buy from Trusted Sources – Support brands like Oudh Creations, which work directly with artisans to provide genuine Chikankari.
How Can We Make the GI Tag More Effective?
For the GI tag to truly benefit Authentic Chikan artisans, we need:
Better Enforcement – Government bodies must crack down on fake Chikankari sellers.
Stronger Branding – Awareness campaigns should educate customers about GI-tagged Chikankari.
Fair Trade Policies – Artisan wages must be regulated and improved to prevent middlemen exploitation.
Direct-to-Customer Selling – Platforms like Instagram, Etsy, and brand websites can help artisans sell their work without middlemen.
The GI Tag is a Step Forward, But Not Enough
While the Geographical Indication (GI) tag is an important milestone, it alone cannot protect Lucknowi Chikankari. Artisans still face exploitation, machine-made imitations, and low wages. The real power lies with customers like you, who choose to support authentic Chikankari brands.
When you buy GI-tagged, handmade Chikankari, you are not just wearing an embroidery—you are preserving a legacy.
Support the artisans. Choose authenticity. Keep Chikankari alive.